How Much Does It Cost To Rebuild A Turbo

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How To: Rebuild Your Own Turbo

Nosotros Replace The Bearings and Bolt On a New Compressor Cycle

Turbochargers are expensive. At that place'due south no denying that. Even an OE replacement can price y'all up to $1,000. But, if your diesel engine needed new piston rings and a simple rebuild, y'all wouldn't swap in a whole new motor, would you? Much like aging diesel engines, the turbochargers equipped on them don't have to be thrown away when they demand a little freshening up, they tin be rebuilt easily, and on the cheap.

Maximum Diesels in San Jacinto, California, was in the process of rebuilding a stock Garrett TP38 journal bearing turbo from a '97 7.3L Power Stroke and let u.s. take a look to come across for ourselves how easy it is to practice. This is no massive undertaking, as the overhaul can exist performed by anyone, takes less than an hr to complete, involves working with very uncomplicated mechanical components, and costs less than $200 in parts.

The just tools required are: a five/8-inch socket, 12-point 8mm socket, 18mm socket, rubber mallet, torque wrench, silicone, snap-ring pliers, and a vise. Follow along, as nosotros've outlined step-past-step instructions for any do it yourselfer willing to tackle this simple chore.

EBV Delete:
While the turbo was off, the guys at Maximum Diesels also removed the exhaust backpressure valve (EBV). The EBV acts as a choke in cold atmospheric condition and is actuated by oil pressure and co-ordinate to oil temperature. On common cold days, the butterfly will stay closed until operating temperature is reached.

To remove it, the two tabs that attach the butterfly valve to the shaft are simply cutting off (yellow pointer). You remove the butterfly (scarlet arrow), and then pull the shaft out (bluish arrow). A 3/4-inch freeze plug (light-green arrow) tin can exist pressed in on the other side and used to plug the shaft hole. The pedestal has to be modified as well simply is also relatively simple. First, the snap ring is removed, the EBV actuator (rod and leap associates) is pulled, and then the oil inlet for the EBV actuator can be tapped to take a 1/4-inch pipage plug. This stops oil flow to the area.

By deleting the EBV yous lose the manufacturing plant cold warm-upwardly option, simply with custom tuning (which many 7.3L trucks take) a loftier-idle choice is warm-up plenty in cold weather. Plus, gutting the EBV is thought to lower EGT, meliorate exhaust menses, and provide one less failure point on '941/ii to '03 7.3L Power Stroke engines.

Once the compressor housing was pulled, nosotros confirmed that no excessive shaft play was present, the compressor bicycle blades looked decent, and the back plate nevertheless had a smooth, uncorrupted surface (the back plate can go scarred when shaft play allows the wheel to make contact with the compressor housing).

Next, the thrust begetting assembly was inspected and removed. This is where the turbo's mainshaft support lies. The thrust collar and thrust washer reside in this area, and the shaft rides on a thin coat of oil between the two. The result of thrust assembly failure is excessive shaft play, scarring on the shaft, and eventually the compressor bike making contact with the compressor housing.

Next, the large piston seal band on the turbine side of the shaft was removed (the other goes on the compressor side) and the expanse was cleaned with brake cleaner and a wire castor and replaced with the one supplied in the rebuild kit (shown).

From there, the new thrust washer was installed in the dorsum plate, followed by the new thrust neckband. Afterwards that, the back plate was fastened to the middle cartridge (it tin only be installed ane way). The four 12-signal bolts were torqued to 12 ft-lb.

Source: https://www.motortrend.com/features/1007dp-how-to-rebuild-your-own-turbo/